Arnie, if you load the parameter that steven was running on his that should be ok for all your settings and you would just have to adjust any settings to do with having a different throttle maybe!!
I did read somewhere that you need to increase the throttle more than 50% for it to take off!! and obviously when returned to half way again it would hover at the current altitude.
I remember steven posting on facebook about throttle curves for the pixhawk as his was not climbing fast until he made some changes and apparently he had some help from 3DR to set his parameters for the splash drone.
Might be worth a dry test run with no props once you got parameters sorted, let it idle and see when you increase the throttle where it starts to increase the revs for take off!!
That sounds like the plan.... I put props on last night indoors... started up holding stick at bottom and let it carefully...gradually go to center. The motors spun up a lot faster as I knew they would, but not enough to make it try to lift off. So it should be ok... Just a different experience from the spash auto or dji where the motors are basically at idle when the stick is center. I will load the parameters over the weekend and see if there is any difference. I doubt I will be able to test fly this weekend because of the storm heading this way...That puts me out at least another week for a first test flight weather permitting...
They did mention sprung throttle and one of the developers said he has used it, so I might join there and ask a couple of questions to him!
May be worth proceeding with caution with the different modes as I believe they differ to the splash drone. If I read correctly the stabilized mode is actually a manual mode with no assistance from the flight controller as in barometer/compass/gps.....
alt hold will use the barometer to maintain the height automatically but just thought id make you aware in case you did not know about the stabilised mode!!!!!
Delboy, Been reading also.. Stabilize mode is auto level so the controller keeps the bird level but you control the height. Alt hold is more like atti mode where the barometer maintains height, but still no gps and it will drift. Loiter mode is gps assisted mode. There is a series of video's that goes through set up , flight modes, etc. on the painless 360 channel at youtube. This is a link to the first one www.youtube.com/watch?v=uH2iCRA9G7k
Now that I have a better idea how everything works, i am in the process of stripping everything down to figure out the best permanent mounting positions for everything. BTW the controller does not need to be pointed with the arrow to the front, it can be mounted in any position you want as long as you apply the offsets in mission planner. The shell is very tight for mounting everything. I will send a picture of my final solution once i have it figured out.
I did try putting the Pix 90 degrees sideways so it was oriented like the original auto controller but pushed all the way to the front. That provided less room than the way its done in the pictures from the above links.
The build that I did includes the following:
Pixhawk- Hobyking HKPilot 32 / External GPS 915 mhz mavlink radio Minum OSD in plastic case for fpv Splashdrone video transmitter Splashdrone gimbal controller board Pixhawk USB - Led module
In order to make everything fit, I had to put the mavlink radio on the power board and then stacked the minum osd on top of it.
I stuck the video transmitter to the same side of the drone as the R9D transmitter for the RC. They are now on the left side of the drone.
I put the splashdrone gimbal controler on the Power board and the usb led on top of it. Those components are held down by Velco so they can be easily removed.
This is a really really tight fit, but it does all fit and with the GPS on top of the lid, the interference created by all the electronics will hopefully not be an issue.
The HKPilot/Pixhawk is held to the board with the anti-vibration foam tape supplied with the kit.
The power module is simply laid in behind the battery.
I used the power connector that originally supplied the auto controller as an aux power input to the Pix for a redundant power connection since the Pix supports this. The main power connection is off the power module which monitors the voltage and current.
I put a second mast up to bring the video antenna outside since the hole is there anyway and it seems to have improved the video from the limited testing I have done so far. Once im done testing everything, I will seal the hole to make it waterproof.
Everything is up and running, calibrated and ready to go for a test flight. Probably wont happen for a while due to the current blizzard and my travel schedule. Would not anticipate being able to test fly until at least middle to end of Feb so this will probably be the last post on this subject for a while.
You are right, Pixfalcon does not have aux servo outputs, but with the quad, there are 4 unused outputs. I am far away from home now, but one I back next weekend, I will look at the Mission planner if it is possible to output gimbal on unused channels 5-8. I know that shutter control can go on channel 8. For me follow me mode is also very desiranle to film our wakeboarding sessions. I don't see this useful for any activities on the land, because it cannot avoid obstacles and in many cases it is limited by the maximum speed. PixHawk is a capable controller, but there is a reason 3DR decided to use a separate computer for all smart functons with their Solo.
Just want to confirm, that you can setup RC5-RC8 outputs to control the gimball in Mission planner. The main difference in output on those channel compare to Aux outputs is PWM frequency is 400Hz instead of 50Hz. Looks like it shall not be an issue with the BGC based controller that comes with Splash Drone. I am still waiting for more details on reliability of their design. There are some reports on glitches with altitude during switching modes, but I would prefer their compact design over full size PixHawk. Also. they have OSD and telemetry module on a single board, which would save even more space. You can find it in HK store.
I am very impressed with Arnie's progress on integrating PixHawk and very interested to see the flight times and how the interference is worked out by moving GPS/compass on the mast.
Flew my first successful flight with the Pixhawk Splashdrone today. Did not have a lot of time so only up for a short flight. Flew pretty good on default settings. I was going to try to do an auto tune, but stopped after it auto landed on its own. Did not initially understand why and did not want to push my luck so I stopped at that point. Upon getting it home and downloading the log, it appears it auto- landed due to the low battery failsafe being tripped. Not sure why as the OSD showed it was still over 15 volts and the failsafe is set for 14.4. Have to research if there is a timer for how long it has to be at the min voltage for the failsafe to kick in. Im thinking it may have dropped voltage when I goosed the throttle at one point. In any case, I was very pleased at how it flew with no tuning at all.
Word of warning for anyone else trying this. My first flight attempt, the drone immediately flipped over upside down when trying to take off. Turns out I had the motor 2 and 3 wiring flip flopped by accident. The mission planner has a screen where it lets you press a button and run one motor at a time to test. This was how I figured out the wiring was wrong.
Also having a log is a great thing, as I can now actually see everything going on and be comfortable with how the drone is performing as opposed to just praying with the auto controller. They should really add some logging to it. With the auto controller you are kind of really flying blind. Both the Dji Phantom 3 and the Pixhawk provide logging which is a huge help and really gives me a feeling of comfort being able to confirm things are running as expected. The Pixhawk is super configurable which can be both a blessing and a curse depending on your perspective and how much time you want to put into it. There is a lot to learn....
Arnie, congrats on the first flight. I had a lot of troubles calibratibg power module to show correct voltage on my other PixHawk. The best way I found is to run a full baterry drain test on the floor with connected voltmeter and reverted propellers to prevent take off. It would be harder to do on Splash Drone because you can' t mount propellers opposite way. Logs are the best feature on PixHawks they have tons of information, but you need to know what to look for. Try the automatic log analysis tool in Mission Planner. It is very good to pinpoint problems. By the way, how you attached the gps mast on the cover? I would look at possible options to attach it on the shell.
Hi Vladm, Thanks for the info. As far as I can tell the battery is reading properly. I did have to adjust the voltage at one point to show the measured voltage, it was off a few tenths of a volt. It seems fine since then I check periodically at different battery levels when its on the bench and it seems to match. I have found the auto log analysis tool and you are correct, thats how i figured out that my auto land was due to low battery. Unfortunately it will be a while until I can test again, but so far this is working out, and for me will be the right solution as I like to have the level of control over things along with visibility that the Pixhawk provides.
I have the antenna screwed down to the cover as this seems like the best place. I initially tried to bolt it to a plate that was for testing hot glued to the bottom of the drone, but I did not like this solution as the mast was sitting pretty close to the props and also was closer to the motors which could cause more electro magnetic interference. There is really nowhere it can go on the shell because of the props and the angles on the shell.
The sprung throttle may need a little work but is not a show stopper. In alt hold or Loiter mode, the props spin faster on the ground than what you would expect, but the drone doesnt lift off untill you push the stick up.. In stabiliaze mode the drone will lift off with the throttle at center positon, but only a few feet high. Playing with the throttle curve on the controller may fix this at some point, but for now I want to get everything else worked out first. Probably the best answer is to find somewhere to get the tension spring for the controller from. If the tension spring were to be installed, the left stick would still spring back left and right, just not up and down and the problem would be gone. Im thinking It may not be a big deal operating without the throttle spring and it seems like thats the standard setup for a pixhawk.
HI All, Back to flying again. Flew 3 batteries today...Found out not to trust the failsafe autoland. It does work, but is ending my flights too short.. I purchased a SKYRC Imax charger and now have visibility into the battery charges.. With the Pixhawk set to autoland at 14.2 volts, which is how I believe the Auto controller was set up, I have been landing at around 5 - 6 minutes of flight with the gimbal/camera attached. With the new charger I can see that the batteries were only around 45-50 percent depleted, since the charger shows the amount of mah it is putting back into the battery. From everything I have read, its safe to deplete the batteries to around 80 %, so the failsafe autoland has been making the drone land much too soon which makes sense since I use to get around 10 minutes with the auto controller and the electronics draw very little current compared to the esc's and motors so the change in the electronics should have a negligible effect on flight time. Im dropping the auto land voltage to 14 v which should be safe and will re tune the voltage sensor and see what happens. BTW, I read a few posts today about people having issues with the Auto not holding altitude properly. From my experimenting, I can tell you the cover has a huge effect on this. I have tried flying without the washer and also with a small unsealed whole on top, since I put the FPV antenna and GPS on the cover and had to run the wires through a hole. In this configuration before sealing the cover and using the rubber gasket, I had LARGE altitude swings with lateral flight, with the bird dropping significantly as it traveled forward. After sealing the hole and using the gasket, the issue has gone away completely and there is very little vertical change with a straight lateral flight. I had this same effect with the Auto controller and the Pixhawk. Just an FYI if it helps anyone.
Hi Arnie, I am glad to hear about your progress. I have some progress on my drone as well. Here is my PixRacer setup. It comes with own PDB, I've added mini telemetry, will add mini OSD and planning to run Gimbal, camera and LED lights on a separate battery. I am replacing almost everything. Still planning to keep GPS/Compass inside and may be move compass out from GPS if I have to shield GPS from EMI. Also got some waterproof connectors for the gimblal, but still not sure if I want to use them. There is a big chance to brake them in a crash.
mod95: Hey any one out in our SD world have a Auto Plus flight controller? willing to let 1 go?
Feb 5, 2021 1:37:41 GMT
corsair40: j'ai un splash drone 3+je suis incapable de le met a jour, j'aimerais savoir comment,,,,,,,,,,,,,merci
Dec 15, 2020 18:41:59 GMT
ryzer: Disconnected the flight controller , anyone got pictures of connectors at both ends?
Nov 23, 2020 12:15:01 GMT
tyuyrt: Hello, I just installed a new GPS with lid - it only works when the lid and cable are dangling down the side of the drone; as soon as I close the lid the lights flash yellow red and green and I cannot take off. I'd appreciate any insights.
Oct 22, 2020 21:49:32 GMT
robertinmaine: I have a Splash Drone 3 with an intermittent issue with recording/pictures. After several attempts to fix over emails, Sent drone and controller to Urban Drones, fixed, said it was a pairing issue. Worked for 1 flight Records when on WIFI. Suggestion?
Aug 18, 2020 13:32:32 GMT
vladko: Is it possible to change the remote control of Splash Drone with Splash Drone 3? What are the requirements if this is possible?
Jul 3, 2020 22:55:58 GMT
chris: I had to go through all the settings in the app (computer) and reset some settings as well as reset some of the defaults. After that I was good to go again.
May 8, 2020 22:32:57 GMT
chris: marksdrone: just had the same issue with mine. It may be the accelorometer that you need to calibrate first and then do the compass after that.
May 8, 2020 22:31:44 GMT
marksdrone: Hi everyone.. i just got a older splash..auto .2017 model..it wont calibrate. Goes through the motions . Untill i get that single blink. When i pull down to activate motors the single blink turns solid.and nothing happens . please help..
May 7, 2020 17:15:21 GMT
chris: Can't wait to get the old bird back up in the air and test tomorrow!!
May 2, 2020 3:10:52 GMT
chris: I then got the "green paper airplane" once again.
May 2, 2020 3:10:16 GMT
chris: I had to pair UAV-1 (receiver) to my phone then I could open the app and connect to UAV-2(transmitter)
May 2, 2020 3:09:42 GMT
chris: Also I didi have to play around with the bluetooth on my phone with transmitter and receiver.
May 2, 2020 3:08:55 GMT
chris: Had a hell of a time with the compass. Also make sure the last page it is on COM not RC.
May 2, 2020 3:08:28 GMT
chris: Got my old school app to work! Messed around a bit in the swellpro computer program and made sure all settings were recognized.
May 2, 2020 3:07:53 GMT